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> The bit in the article about them not wanting to really scale up is telling.

In what way?


> No one makes or has made a perfect engine

1.9 TDI


> not under my control

Why, if I may ask?


Wife or custody orders, usually

Family, yes. Nothing bad or negative, I like where I live a lot. It's just busy, and not super safe for wandering children, at least until they're a bit older.

Why would you consider this a good prompt?

My observations have been that image generation is especially challenged when asked to do things that are unusual. The fewer instances of something happening it has to train on, the worse it tends to be. Watch repair done in water fits that well - is there a single image on the internet of someone repairing a watch that is partially submerged in water? It also tends to be bad at reflections and consistency of two objects that should be the same.

Why would you consider this a good prompt?

Because both Nano Banana Pro and ChatGPT Images 2.0 have touted strong reasoning capabilities, and this particular prompt has more objective, easy-to-validate criteria as opposed to the subjective nature of images.

I have more subjective prompts to test reasoning but they're your-mileage-may-vary (however, gpt-2-image has surprisingly been doing much better on more objective criteria in my test cases)


[flagged]


"Quirky and obscure" has the functional benefit of ensuring the source question is not in the training data/outside the median user prompt, and therefore making the model less likely to cheat.

We have enough people complaining about Simon Willison's pelican test.


When you program, do you consider using your prior knowledge of programming cheating?

What would make the prompt a better actual evaluation in your judgement?

Not focusing on pokemon for a start. Maybe use something more people can recognize and evaluate. I have zero knowledge of pokemon, I see it as a niche thing for ultra-nerdy people, and not something everyone is familiar with. Nothing about that test can be evaluated by anyone but a pokemon expert. Sorry, but pokemon isn't as mainstream as some people might think it is.

I think you underestimate how popular Pokemon is.

By most objective measures it's the largest entertainment franchise in all of history.

Would you also object to any other pop-culture reference for the same reason?


>I think you underestimate how popular Pokemon is.

No, I think you are overestimating how popular pokemon is.

>By most objective measures it's the largest entertainment franchise in all of history.

I don't care? Only a small set of pokemon fans would be able to gain anything from this "test".

>Would you also object to any other pop-culture reference for the same reason?

Yes.


still #opentowork huh

Where does one even use that hashtag?

It's a LinkedIn joke.

Ah yes, also known as C++ enjoyers.

> "they don't like my debit card provider"

Can you elaborate?


The provider is Wise - an "e-money" institution. I've been using them for well over a decade. They are very good. Never had any issues until recently - a service I was interested in uses Stripe to "verify" the card before charging. Stripe rejected all Wise cards - physical and digital. I had to use my legacy bank's debit card. Problem is, the legacy bank charges outrageous forex fees and has an awful spread on top of it, so if I can't use Wise card after "verification", I will have to give up on the service. I asked them what could be done and they just said they use Stripe and that's it.

Wait, why does your debit card involve forex fees and spreads?

Somebody's got to do the currency conversion. If you let the merchant do it, it's usually even worse.

(Implicit is the OP buying a bunch of stuff in a currency which is not the one they earn it; probably only one of those is dollars)


With Wise it does not, but with my legacy bank it does, because the base currency is one of the non-euro European ones.

> If you just need to take dumb payments, just use Stripe Checkout.

Could not agree more. Offload as much complexity (receipts, invoices, tax, customer info, etc.) to Stripe as humanly possible in the beginning. Don't build for edge cases or UX polish. If people want your product, they will buy it.


and then without knowing it you are paying 1000's a month to stripe

This is kind of the tradeoff you need to make when launching a product though. You cleave off some of the product's margin & send it to a third party so that you can get the thing launched. If it's unsuccessful, that's fine, you'll pay no money to the vendor. If it's successful..? Great! Now you can afford to pay someone to build a checkout that doesn't cost me thousands a month in fees.

Stripe takes 1.5-2.5%, so if you're sending them 1,000s a month, your revenues from that checkout are approaching the $millions p/a. Certainly enough to hire an expert in the domain.


It costs much more then that, that's their feeds on top of CC, conversion etc. at 20K mrr you are easily paying 1k p/m in Stripe & Processing fees.

How is that different than any other payment processor? Interchange isn't free anywhere

Stripe's fees are well above interchange fees (especially in Europe). On top of that Stripe's pricing for other features (e.g. invoicing and subscriptions) is also a percentage, so you end up paying a ton for those features.

And other payment processors don't charge a fee for invoicing and subscriptions?

I'm not sure if they all charge a percentage of your money transfers for that. At work we decided to migrate that part to an internal system anyway.

because stripe on purpose hide fees, constantly asks you to try out new features and then secretly charges you more then market price when you say yes. See radar, managed payment, stripe billing management etc.

This means you’ve done everything absolutely fucking right

thats a bit my point, you get there at around 18-20K mrr already

Fair point, just saw your other comment.

I feel it's a case of "This random word generator can't possibly be smarter than I?!"

> A “hey I noticed x is costing you more than it should and could be better/cheaper done like this” AND then actually give them the “this” for free without expectation of anything in return is 10x more effective than a message where you’re asking for work.

Can you give a more specific example from your recent experience?


(My point is: this sounds like very plausible sounding advice, until you try to apply this to a producer of steel ball bearings located in Upper Austria, just outside of Linz)

Side quest: Can you tell more about the UV sterilisation thing? Why do you do that? How often? Where? It seems like such a specific thing to do.

Hi, i am not who you asked, but i feel like i've done enough research and have some warnings. UV-C light itself is antimicrobial, but only for surfaces that the light touches, and in the case of cloth it needs to penetrate a bit.

There are at least two types of UV-C light bulbs, as well as literal ozone generators that use ceramic platen and a fan. The type of UV-C bulb that is most common on Amazon and Ali is ~254 nanometers, and _does not_ produce Ozone. It does leave a smell, but it's more like an oldschool hospital antiseptic smell. probably the smell of the dead germs, yay.

Now 185nm is actually the correct size to turn O2 around the bulb into O3 (and more oxygens too, i once read, i think, kinda like cracking hydrocarbons to make longer chains or something).

UV-C bulbs (not base, which is an edison base) that can sterilize a room in 5-15 minutes are about 15-20 CM tall, with four crystal tubes that are connected together standing up on the base. image here [0]

you must run a fan over them if you want your money's worth. they get hot, the bases get hot, it makes the most sense in non-carpeted rooms to aim the crystal down and the base up, so that is real rough on them. that took me 2 bulbs to figure out.

If you can find a reputable place to get the box with ceramic and a fan that lasts more than 5 minutes, let me know, because that's closer to what i want for bedrooms and stuff.

The UV-C 185nm bulbs work great to make a car stop stinking, too! completely removes cigarette smells, if the car hasn't been smoked in for a while. run the A/C full blast and run the bulb for 15 minutes, open the windows for 5 minutes, roll em, sniff. Still smell? another 10 minutes, in the back seat, full A/C blasting. vent, sniff. Faint smell? replace the cabin air filter. Charge customer(?)

and i'm going to respond to your followup question to the GP as well: Covid. Obviously. They were telling us it would live on groceries and deliveries and that, so i put all deliveries in my laundry room and dosed em with UV-C for a minute. CDC or whatever studies said that 10-60 seconds was more than enough to kill sars-ncov-2.

I only use it for freshening cars, rooms, bathrooms, etc now.

WARNING: Do not be in the room with any UV-C light for more than a few seconds. Do not look at the bulb for literally any more than necessary to ensure it is on and safe. they make safety goggles that wrap your entire eye sockets to protect from UV, too. if you get a 185nm bulb, either completely ventilate the room with fresh air, or leave it sealed for 60 minutes then open it up for a few minutes, all the ozone reacts and goes away or something.

UV-C hurts your skin, yes, but it will make your eyeballs literally itch. so don't, don't don't look at it. they are not blacklights.

[0] https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71LgjON7J+L._AC_.jpg


> WARNING: Do not be in the room with any UV-C light for more than a few seconds.

This advice does not necessarily apply to far UVC (200-235 nm), which appears to be much safer for human skin and corneas than UVC outside this specific band. More research is needed before calling it "safe" but far UVC is almost certainly less hazardous than the rest of the UVC band.

Pay close attention to wavelength when purchasing UVC light sources.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Far-UVC


254 doesn't make ozone but; yes, i explained the two i have used and researched. i have not researched far-UVC. it's still germicidal, i still wouldn't want to be in the room with it. I had to check what wavelength "common" UV lasers are, and i'm guessing 261nm or so. If you aim that at your skin, it feels hot real quick. Kinda feels, to me, like my entire life i've been told that all UV is bad, but UV-A blockers are snake oil, etc.

I'll keep my eye out for more research on far-uvc and the possibility of getting a bulb to test.

oh by the way, i must have sent back 2 dozen "185nm" UVC bulbs from a dozen "manufacturers" because they didn't produce ozone, because they were fraudulent listings of 253.7nm bulbs - so this is why i was trying to steer people away from amazon and ali, as it's real easy to get the wrong type if you're looking for ozone. I've only managed to acquire 4 bulbs total in the last 5 years that produced ozone, and i burnt out two before someone said "put a fan on it, those bulbs are designed to be inside an air exchanger!"


Yes, this is a common dilemma in air sterilization. Far UV-C isn't as nasty for skin, but it produces ozone, and ozone is nasty and really bad for your respiratory health.

> induced ozone levels of less than 10 ppb, and much less in moderately or well-ventilated rooms compliant with US far-UVC dose recommendations, and very much less in rooms compliant with international far-UVC dose standards.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38037431/

i'd never heard of ozone in far-uvc nor really far-uvc. For what it's worth, i don't think it matters. the "warning" median dose for Ozone is 1ppm, 100 times more than far-UVC puts out. the "danger" is 5ppm. For ref, Chlorine is 10ppm.

253.7nm does not produce any (or less than 1ppb, which i consider the same thing for my body), and 185nm produces a lot. My warning is specifically to people who want to or need to use the lamps and also think that google isn't very good.

supposition: we don't have the material or material science that is transparent enough between 185 and 254 nanometers to induce more ozone levels than 185nm does.


What about shadows? The UV-C light can't reach everywhere, right? What about the back and undersides of product packaging you want to sterilise?

i didn't touch the bottoms and the backs. like, put on socks, grasp box between socked feet, open box, remove the air bag packaging stuff, and if you want, UV it again. however, if you're using 185nm the ozone will get the "back" and inside. not the bottom, maybe, but if you're concerned, flip it over. If you're concerned, make sure you read research papers on exposure time of pathogens to UV-C and/or Ozone to population destruction. as i mentioned, the papers i read before i bought the bulbs said 10-60 seconds for covid. originally there was a recommendation for up to 3 minutes, but some research group went and tested shorter and shorter lengths of time. so you'd need to know the pathogen you're targeting and run it accordingly.

I primarily use them in the bathroom to kill off mold and bacteria about once every 3 months. I open up the water heater closet, drawers, etc... then I fire one of them up. I've used them in other places but the more they are used the more I have to vent the house.

Has anything prompted you to do this? Have you been doing this for a long time? Have you noticed any changes (yes, I assume?!). Sorry for pelting you with questions, but this is so... interesting and I'm tempted to give it a shot.


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